Edinburgh food & drink

Victoria Street, Old Town

Tourist area, but a well-regarded chippy — haddock and black pudding are the orders it's known for.

Henderson Row, New Town

Multiple-award-winning and going since the 1970s. Queue at peak times.

Newhaven harbour

Harbour-side, fresh off the boats, slightly premium pricing.

Spittal Street, West End

A traditional pub with rotating Scottish cask ales.

Brougham Street, Tollcross

A former parsonage with six to eight hand-pulls and good value — with £3.50 cask ales during quiet periods.

Forrest Road, Old Town

Famous for live folk music — sessions every evening and most afternoons — and it keeps cask ale too. Small, no reservations.

The Shore, Leith

A converted barge and warehouse on the Shore with a good cask selection and outdoor seating by the water.

Angle Park Terrace, Gorgie

Legendary locals' pub near the cemetery, known for its ales.

Victoria Street, Old Town

The best cask ale pub in Scotland and one of the best in the UK — eight hand-pulls and 300+ whiskies. Small, fills up fast.

Fleshmarket Close, Old Town

A tiny pub on the steps between Waverley and the Royal Mile, with always-interesting Scottish ales on.

Young Street, New Town

No music, no food, just beer in a plain local — the Rebus pub.

Queen Street, New Town

The unmarked Queen Street basement that has anchored Edinburgh cocktails for nearly two decades — gin- and whisky-leaning list.

Rutland Place, West End

The obvious starting point for an Edinburgh ceilidh — regular ceilidh nights year-round, always with a Burns Night programme.

Bread Street

Italian aperitivo bar with one of the biggest amaro collections outside Italy and a menu of Negroni variations.

Duke Street, Leith

Leith neighbourhood bar where around 90% of the pour is Scottish, with a menu organised around the port’s old trades.

Queen Street, New Town

Barbershop-fronted basement speakeasy whose menu was named the world’s best at the Spirited Awards.

Advocate’s Close, Old Town

Converted Victorian pump house down an Old Town close with over 300 whiskies and a whisky-led cocktail list.

St Stephen Street, Stockbridge

Neighbourhood bar from the Bramble founders — creative cocktails and a whisky shelf past a hundred bottles.

Roseneath Street, Marchmont

Live and fresh fish — one of the fishmongers recommended here for Scottish-landed fish and live langoustines in season.

Newhaven

Stocks Scottish-landed fish and shellfish — ask where the fish is from and when it was landed; a good fishmonger will tell you.

Victoria Street (also Stockbridge & Morningside)

The best cheesemonger in Scotland — they mature many cheeses in their own cellars. If you're buying one Scottish cheese, buy it here.